November

Written five years ago, this piece set in November 2015 resulted from my research into an unusual way of life. I have woven my created tale around this, hoping it will make interesting and entertaining reading.

This fictional story is based mostly on geographical facts with invented characters and situations; any possible resemblances to real people are purely coincidental.

The audio version is on Anchor: https://anchor.fm/dashboard/episode/e1k5adk

November

I hate November, and this is no understatement. While the cool, damp weather, fallen leaves and early darkness are important contributory factors to this feeling, there is also another reason. In the Christian religion November is considered the Month of the Dead, and my upbringing had made me very much aware of this, adding to the depressing nature of those four autumn weeks each year.

I often longed to abandon this dismal month but had no means of doing so. That is till early 2015 when a history magazine offered me a place with an archaeological team for the whole of November that year. I earn my living as a freelance writer, and through pursuing a hobby could also term myself an amateur historian. As a result, I have been lucky enough to see a number of my articles published in this magazine. This led to my invitation to join the academics – not as an archaeologist, but as a writer. My brief was to give an account of the digs taking place on the islands of Amantani, Taquile and Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian–Bolivian border. These natural islands are surrounded by numerous man-made floating islands, known as the Uros, and have been inhabited for centuries. I was also to observe the way of life of the Uru people who call these islands home and was intrigued to learn much more about them and their history.  

The ancestors of today’s Uru had constructed the first of these floating islands from reeds, and the practice of maintaining them by replacing and adding reeds as and when necessary has continued through the years. Some islands which originated towards the middle of the lake are now much closer to the shore, pulled to safer waters by the residents, to try to reduce damage by storms, often quite violent due to electrical activity in the area. At 12,500 feet, Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, with the Andes in view in the background, so I was looking forward to spectacular scenes.

My writing role involved producing three lengthy features for publication in the magazine, and I jumped at this chance for the challenge it afforded me. As there can’t be many young men who are given this opportunity, I was determined not to squander it. In addition to my agreed payment, all fares, food, accommodation and expenses would be provided, along with the bonus of spending two days and a night at Machu Picchu and a further two in Cuzco before my flight home towards the end of November.

The months leading up to this exciting venture in the Southern Hemisphere were often taken up with preparations. Requirements ranged from suitable clothing to necessary vaccinations, and it was amazing how the weeks flew by as I got everything organised. The islands we’d be visiting were all rather primitive in lifestyle – limited electricity from solar panels, no internet and a sense of feeling cut off from the rest of the world. We in the archaeology teams would be staying with families happy to share their island homes with us and provide meals, and this idea of almost a month of semi-isolation appealed to me.

The magazine’s editor Stephanie arranged a weekend in early October at a lovely hotel on the Dorset coast, so all in the team were able to meet and get to know one another before setting off for Peru. There were three experienced archaeologists who would each head a British team of eight trainees, all of whom were students and recent postgraduates. Needless to say, I felt like the odd one out, but they made me very welcome and took an interest in my writing assignment, as well as explaining their roles on the three natural islands. They were employed to work with the Peruvian archaeologists who had made a start the previous year but suspended the project in April prior to the onset of winter.

My role involved spending one week on each of the three natural islands, during which time I would make extensive notes about the excavations and all of interest I saw and learned there. I could then write the articles when I got back home. Stephanie lent me a new digital camera to take photos of the digs, the artefacts found, the people and their homes, the scenic views on and from each island and anything else of interest. These I agreed to send to her before returning home, and as soon as I was within range of a Wi-Fi signal, a promise I fulfilled.

Before long 31^st October had arrived and I was at Heathrow Airport as our little party of travellers gathered together preparing for the flight. The Team Leaders had all our tickets, and we soon boarded the plane for the long journey to Lima. From there we caught a connecting flight to Juliaca where we were met by the three Peruvian archaeologists Pablo, Adri and Rosa. We all travelled in a hired bus to Lake Titicaca and on arrival found reed boats and oarsmen ready to sail us to the island we were “booked on to”. Accompanied by Pablo and his British team, I was bound for Peru’s Amantani. Measuring less than six square miles, this circular non-floating island has two mountain peaks, Pachatata (meaning father earth) and Pachamama (mother earth). Both have ancient temple ruins on their peaks from the Inca and Tiwanaku civilisations, and who knows what treasures await the archaeologists? The slopes are terraced for the cultivation of vegetables, including potatoes, wheat and quinoa, and there is a small community of livestock including sheep grazing there. While the islanders are not self-sufficient, some are able to make a living from farming, hunting and fishing. As I stood and looked over this famous lake, I decided to start my new job immediately by taking photos of the boats. Though made entirely of reeds, their design reminded me of Viking longships, with their figureheads and need for self-propulsion. I took more photos once we had boarded and set sail, as the views were breathtaking, though the springtime weather had a definite wintry feel, especially as it was nearing the end of the day.

Once on dry land, our boatman accompanied us to the homes where we were to stay. We were each allocated a family who welcomed us. Sumaq, a young married woman, showed me to a small, clean and well-kept room. I was also introduced to my personal interpreter Apo, a young man of Incan origin. Like the Peruvian archaeologists, his fluency in the native languages Quechua and Aymara as well as in Spanish and English proved to be indispensable in the time we spent together. He had been educated in Cuzco, Lima and Chicago and was staying with the Chihuan family in a nearby house. He joined us for the meal and with his linguistic skills liaised between us all very eloquently. From Apo I learned that Sumaq’s name means “beautiful” and her husband’s name Astu translates as “bird of the Andes”. We had a very interesting four-way conversation, and then Apo took his leave as darkness fell, promising to see me for breakfast the next day. Over the next four weeks we would get to know each other well as he was my almost constant companion on all three islands where I stayed, also accompanying me on the sightseeing tour shortly before I flew home.

We made an early start, to get the most of our first day at the dig. The three archaeological teams had been allocated a different island each, with the Amantani team concentrating on the mountain area. As we headed towards Pachamama, Apo outlined the history of the region and mentioned that his name means “god of mountains”. Our site was on virtually flat ground at the mountain base. Work on this first dig was already well underway, and the British team’s remit was to provide the local archaeologists with four months of help and expertise. Sunday was a day off for all of us, and it was good to relax, chat with new friends and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the island. During the week I took many photos of the excavation work at each site, and after just a few days there was evidence of progress. My first week sped by as I observed, photographed and made notes, between carefully carrying finds to the Artefacts Table, where one of the student archaeologists gently brushed them clean and then documented each. There weren’t many discoveries beyond pieces of broken pottery, though still exciting for me. However, on my first day I was thrilled to witness the uncovering of a notable find at the foot of Pachamama – a statue in two halves laying side by side and thought to have religious status. Speculation was rife among the archaeologists, but they all agreed that the experts in Lima would be able to make a much better assessment of its age and significance.

In the evenings, via Apo, I chatted to Sumaq and Astu, who were always attired in the colourful traditional clothing of the region. They were expecting their first baby, and the extra money from my week’s rent was very welcome. I asked about education for their child and they told me that there is a school on one of the floating islands which their son or daughter would attend, travelling by reed boat, when the time comes. This lovely couple had formed a real partnership and, as members of the farming and fishing community, sold their surplus food in the local and mainland markets. They lived a hard life but knew nothing else and seemed content with their lot. When they asked about my life back in England, it seemed absurd to be telling them about the modern technology we took for granted. They told me how the reeds grew long roots into the water and these anchored the floating islands to the bed of the lake but were usually aided by ropes and stones. They owned a reed boat which saved them a fortune in fares to and from the mainland. At the end of my seven days with them I was sorry to say goodbye, and we all hugged. Just before our departure Apo and I gave Sumaq some money to buy a gift for their baby – we’d had a two-man collection for this little gesture. She and Astu seemed overcome and said they would never forget us. I was very touched to receive a small reed llama from them, while Apo was given a model reed boat – both made by Astu especially for us. Mine is on a shelf in my bedroom, a constant reminder of November 2015.

Apo and I then sailed to nearby Taquile in the care of Yupanqui the boatman, a native of this much smaller island which is famous for its spectacular sunsets. He spent his days sailing people between the islands and the lakeside and took us to his home where Apo and I would be staying for the week. I was happy with this arrangement as Apo was very good company with a sense of humour, an excellent grasp of English and much knowledge of these islands and the history of the Uru people. Like many of the women on this second natural island, Yupanqui’s wife Amaru supplemented her husband’s meagre earnings. Her skills were both in embroidery and weaving clothing from alpaca wool bought on the mainland. She offered these garments for sale in the market each week, though she said she had to compete with the men of Taquile who were noted for their knitting prowess. Like most of the islanders, they wore the Taquile costumes, more sombre than on Amantani, and Amaru revealed that the delicate embroidery on her blouse was her own handiwork.

The excavation on Taquile, on the Peruvian side of the lake, was well underway when we arrived at the site on our first morning, and it was surprising how many artefacts had been found in the previous week – nothing unexpected, again mostly broken pottery, but the archaeologists lived in hope. I noted, photographed and continued to take the mostly fragmented finds to the Artefacts Table, handling them with great care. On my penultimate day they came across a very interesting piece of history in the shape of a sizeable section of woven cloth in surprisingly good condition. It seemed to be part of a woollen jacket, called a jobona, worn by Inca women. This was duly photographed and shown to Amaru, who confirmed that the pattern was a Taquile Island design.

Again the days passed quickly, with my routine being much as it had been on Amantani, though on the Sunday Yupanqui, accompanied by Amaru, treated us to a tour of a few of the floating islands, landing on two of them where we were made very welcome and I was able to enhance my Lake Titicaca photographic collection. In the evening we were visited by their friendly neighbours who, with Yupanqui, entertained us with some traditional music on the panpipes. In many ways this was the best week of the three as I was getting into the rhythm of Uru life and into a routine with my notetaking of archaeological successes and disappointments, photography and being the general factotum for the archaeologists. Yupanqui and Amaru were wonderful hosts and she an excellent cook, so much so I was never disappointed at mealtimes. It was sad to leave them, and they were both very grateful when Apo and I gave them some money to treat themselves, insisting they accept it despite their initial refusal. To our surprise, they handed Apo and me each a gift of a scarf and hat made by Amaru. I was incredibly touched and wear them often. Both are extremely warm, and I frequently receive compliments from fellow customers admiring the patterns as I wander around the high-street shops back here in England.

With Yupanqui as our boatman for the fairly long journey of about 40 miles to Isla del Sol, another natural island but on the Bolivian south side of the lake, he gave us much information about the various islands we passed. On reaching the shore, we had to register our arrival in Bolivia at a small hut before being escorted to the house where Apo and I would be spending the next seven days, and Yupanqui would have an overnight stay before returning home. We were introduced to the Quispe family – Quilla, Khuno and their three children, who welcomed us warmly. Both husband and wife carried on the craft of reed boat making, following in the footsteps of both sets of grandparents who had been involved in the building of Thor Heyerhal’s Ra II. Quilla and Khuno made us very welcome, showed us the art of reed boat making and allowed us to take many photos of this and their home and family. As on the previous two islands, the local people were very friendly and would smile and wave whenever they saw Apo and me. Some stopped to chat to us and, with Apo interpreting, I felt part of Lake Titicaca life.

Apo had told me that Isla del Sol was said to be the birthplace of the Sun God and the first two Incas and therefore is considered a sacred place. In view of the long history of the island, it was likely that many religious artefacts would be uncovered in the four months of the dig. Much had been found in the past, but much more was thought to be hidden in the depths below the topsoil.

The archaeologists on this island were progressing well and finding partially preserved statues, fragments of cooking utensils and a rare complete bowl which the local archaeologists believed the Incas had used for burning incense. They were sure that the further down they dug the more they would come across, and they promised to send me photos of any unusual finds once I was home. I took up my duties there as I had on the two previous islands, and by this third week I was adept as a carrier to the Artefacts Table, though a rather soggy reed llama took some lifting and that was with Apo’s help. It was left next to the table to dry, which would take some time given the relatively low temperature for springtime and the way the rain could blow into the marquee.

At the end of a very pleasant week we took our leave of the delightful Quispe family, with the children giving us pictures they had drawn of their island, house and the whole family in the traditional clothing of their island. Apo told them they would be wonderful souvenirs for us both and we would always remember them all. I now have mine framed and hanging on the living room wall.

As we were closer to Bolivia than Peru, an islander took us by reed boat to the lakeside and with the aid of a minibus, laid on for tourists, we reached Copacabana. There we were able to board a bus for the 11-hour drive to Cuzco, Apo’s home city, and spent the night at his house. In the morning we caught another bus to Machu Picchu, the driver leaving us and a few other passengers where we could buy a ticket for the ascent to the top by way of the single-track railway.

Apo and I explored Machu Picchu, known as The Lost City of the Incas, staying in a hotel there and marvelling at the skill of the Inca constructors and the value they put on this wonder of architecture. Having visited this sacred site many times over the years, Apo acted as my guide and introduced me to the most awe-inspiring areas. I was thrilled to see both llamas and alpacas staring at us as we wandered around the site. However, Apo advised me not to approach them. These animals, though used to people, were happier with those they knew, so could turn on us. Therefore, I admired them from a short distance away but close enough to take photos which many of them seemed to pose for!

Cuzco proved to be as interesting as I had hoped, with all the ancient structures and wonderful museums, as well as its very welcoming hotel staff, and it was here that I ended my stay in Peru. Apo accompanied me to the airport, where we exchanged tokens of friendship. I was very sorry to say goodbye to him, but I knew my photos, gifts and the few handmade items I had bought on the islands would be lifelong souvenirs. I had thoroughly enjoyed my month, telling him it was au revoir, not a final goodbye, and that we would meet up again.

Back home in early December I began writing my articles for the magazine and was rewarded a few months later when the first was published, with the headline “James Pargeter, our intrepid writer and photographer, brings news and pictures from Lake Titicaca”. This recently led to their keenness for me to write An Introduction to the Inca Empire. Luckily it is a subject I have taken a genuine interest in since my trip, but the invitation to write this series of articles answered my silent question as to why I had been given a free sightseeing minibreak! I have also received a couple of offers for writing assignments from other magazine editors and am considering both. Life is looking up! I am still in touch with many of the friends I made on this expedition, including Apo, who plans to visit me soon. I shall be taking him on a few English history tours during his fortnight with me.

However, my initial thrill at swapping a British November for a Peruvian one was somewhat spoiled as it was cool and rainy, with thunderstorms a frequent threat. On reflection, this is not too surprising, given the height and electrically charged nature of the Lake Titicaca region. As Peru is a little over 800 miles from the equator, the days and nights tend to be almost equal in length, so there were no long, bright spring evenings to enjoy. Added to that, with the Catholic religion practised alongside the old beliefs, the residents of these islands honour their dead throughout November and shrines were present both inside and outside many houses. All in all though, my impressions of November were not so much eradicated as enhanced in Peru. Somehow with the distance from home, they seemed less personal than in England, but at the end of it all, I never did get away from November as fully as I had hoped.

© Chasqui Penguin, 2021

Twitter: @ChasquiPenguin